A Tonal Affair at Pitti 91

The pitti Peacocks have toned down for Fall's Show

Words by BIlly George
Photos by Enrico Labriola, Julien Boudet & Jonathan Daniel Pryce

London, Paris and Milan are what come to mind when thinking fashion week. It's those cities that attract the big brands to show their seasonal collections. But Pitti Uomo is the men's trade show held in Florence that is truly magical. The renaissance architecture lends itself to the tradition of hanging about the street looking wonderful. Pitti Uomo is by far, one of my favourite events on the fashion show calendar, and the most important platform for men's clothing and accessories.  

Not your traditional fashion week show, it's a curated collection men's goods in a trade show set up. With some of the biggest names on and off the catwalk attending, it's become known for it's "peacock'ing". "What do you mean?", you might ask. Well. Pitti Peacocks are that rare breed of extravagantly dressed male who comes out to show off at this particular style gathering. They are the lavishly dressed men seen at Florence twice a year, flamboyantly showing their graceful mix of colour to attract the buddying photographer. This year. We've seen a major shift! It's quite surprising. The lads have stashed away their colourful pieces and have instead, put together very sartorial layers of muted tones.

Don't get me wrong. This is a super positive change. Pitti Peacocks had become a bit of a joke. It was over done. The gents, and often ladies, have opted for calm and neutral colours and combinations of materials. We're seeing camel coloured coats with grey turtlenecks, navy and copper splashed together. Earthy goodness and monochrome details just make me so happy. The balance of streetwear trends has made positive impact, especially when indulged with classic mens tailoring. We're seeing tweed jackets with hooded sweatshirts, velvet blazers with three-piece suits and all the other fine delicacies of fine textiles. 

It's like a complete Mr Porter editorial at Florence. And I, for one, am glad. One thing is for sure, it's another strong year for layering. Outfits oozing with sophisticated accessories to flare up your fear of missing out. It's a fine balance of posh silhouettes with street elegance. The lads are on fire, and their's no need to extinguish the flames of these sartorial gents.